This is the forth of
a series of ten posts about my recent trip to Mountain Bike the Continental
Divide between Banff, Canada to Antelope Wells, New Mexico. Further information
about the expedition can be found at www.bikingthegreatdivide.com
Day 12: Elkhorn Hot Springs Campground – Lima (104 miles)
This was a tough day! You
will find out why in a minute!
Having been late to bed we
woke up early and decided not cook porridge but to cycle the 35 miles down hill
to Grant. Most of the first part of the day was on the pavement or along jeep
track. We made good time for the first 10 minutes until we ran into100+ cattle
being herded up the road by a bunch of cowboys and cowgirls.
Having negotiated this
first obstacle of the day we made pretty good progress down toward Grant
through a really spectacular landscape. However, as we approached the
settlement we were all in need of some breakfast. Marco, thinking he could
smell the bacon, biked ahead to reserve us a good spot in the café and he
managed to get a great table outside. Unfortunately, it was the only table as
the café looked like it had been shut for at least a couple of years! We were absolutely mortified as I
wandered off to try and get some water from one of the locals to cook our
porridge on the café balcony.
After breakfast we carried
on with the route towards Lima.
The guidebook read, ‘the next 47 miles are very remote’. It was also very hot and
there was no real shade on the route. We pressed on making good progress and
survived on Simons ‘Nutty Butter’ biscuits.
Before the climb up to the
Sheep Creek Divide we thought about stopping for some noodles (the last of our
food) but I was keen to keep going. In the end Marco and Simon just had some
trail mix rather than stopping to cook. In hindsight this was probably a bad move
as the trail mix didn’t seem to agree with Simon and made him violently ill.
The next thing we had to
avoid was a big storm. We had already missed one storm but this had made the
mud tracks difficult to negotiate and it was our first real encounter with
using the Bobs in really muddy conditions. The back wheels jammed a couple of
times and we had to get off to clear the mud out. To make matters worse, a
second storm was on the way and we were getting low on water. I gave Marco my
spare bottle as he was out.
The road to Lima was a long hard
Cycle. Marco went ahead and Simon and I took our time down the muddy tracks. We
passed some fascinating limestone scenery, but we were both to tired to get our
cameras out and really appreciate it. Then I got a puncture – it was just a
slow flat and I decided to pump it up every 30mins rather than change the tube.
Eventually Simon and I made
it to the road. Lima was only seven miles away. But it was a long seven miles into the wind, up
hill, we were zapped of energy and out of water. When we caught with Marco in
the Café at Lima.
I did the thing I am most ashamed of
during the whole trip. In the absence of decent beer… I drank a Budweiser
(something I am not proud of and may never live down in real ale circles that I
often frequent).
After dinner we went across
to the campsite to book in. The guidebook has a note in it saying that the Lima campsite no longer
did a cyclist discount. To be honest I’m not surprised as for the three of use
to stay the total price was only just over $5!
That evening Simon and
Marco decided to have breakfast in the café the next morning and then leave. I
couldn’t make up my mind whether to wait and have breakfast with them or to
leave early to try and avoid the heat (I’m not great in the heat). In the end I
decided it was too much hassle to leave early, split the lunch stuff etc.. In
hindsight this was good thing – little did I realise that Day 13 would be even
more adventurous than day 12!
Day 13: Lima – Aston (140miles inc: 20-25ish? by truck)
This was a major turning point in the trip.
Considering our two long days I felt surprisingly good and was glad that
I had stayed for breakfast. Simon joked about the fact that we had both ordered
item 13 off the menu and that it was day 13. I couldn’t believe that we had
been riding for nearly two weeks.
After breakfast we set off and things seemed to be going well. I stopped
to take a picture and then raced after the boys. Coming over a bump I landed
heavily – heard a massive pop and realised that my back tire had completely
blown out. I shouted and blew my whistle to attract the attention of the
others, but the wind prevented them hearing.
As I took my wheel off I noticed that in the blow out my tire had ripped
in a place that would be impossible to fix. I should point out that I rubbish
at anything to do with bike repairs so I just stuck some gaffer tape on the
tire, replaced the tube and kept my fingers crossed.
By the time I had got things fixed and been eaten by several thousand
mosquitoes (the others had the DEET) I was feeling frustrated and really
worried about my tire. I plodded on for couple of miles and Simon cycled back
to see if I was alright and I explained the story as we cycled to catch up with
Marco.
When we caught up with Marco (who is very good at bike mechanics… and
most things actually!) he suggested that I swap my tires over. Which is what we
did, he also shared my concern that my tire might not last the day and then I
would be stuck in the wilderness with a long push ahead of me. I made the
decision that if a 4 by 4 went past I would flag it down and try to get a lift
to a town where I might be able to get my bike fixed. 40 miles later a vehicle
went past.
As I clambered into the back of Forrest’s truck and waved goodbye to the
guys. Simon asked if I wanted the other half of the tent, ‘just keep it for now I replied’.
Little did I realise that that would be the last I saw of Simon and Marco for
this trip and it seems like the last time they will ever speak to me again as
well :-).
Anyway on with the story. Forest (the owner of the 4by4) was able to give me a
lift 20 or so miles up the road to the Lakeview Ranger Centre where I was
dropped off and started peddling again. I cycled the next ten miles carefully in
the hope that another vehicle might come by – then I got fed up and just went
for it. The track was not great but I started to make reasonable progress as I
crossed Red Rock Pass into Idaho. Eventually I reached the main road
and tarmac (where I felt a lot more confident about my tire). From here I broke
off from the route as I headed to the settlement of Macks Inn to ask for some advice about my bike.
In the garage one of the locals said that he was pretty sure there was a
bike shop in Ashton. Ashton was 35 miles away and off route. The big advantage
was I could take the road and was pretty confident that if my tire gave in I
could flag down a lift. So off I went.
NOTE: During the
month away I went off route a few times. I’ll go over my route variations in
post 9 of 10 with the other logistics.
One of the interesting things about going off route is that the maps
have no contours lines! While on route you rely on the map profiles to let you
know if you have to go up and down hill – but when you’re off route you haven’t
got a clue!
The hill before Ashton seemed huge but I was also tired after a long and
stressful day. Eventually, I arrived in Ashton to find out that the towns
sports shop had shut a number of years ago!
That evening I booked myself into the town motel. I needed a plan and I
was pleased I had my iPhone! I did my best to fix my wheel. Some advice on
Twitter and Facebook was to stuff the tire with grass, so that’s what I did. I
found out that Simon and Marco were 35 miles to the north. But Simon was not
feeling great again and had started to get ill. I found out that the next
nearest bike shop was Jackson Hole (112 miles
away). I picked up a few supplies at the local shop to see me through the next
couple of day and decided that I would do my best to make Jackson
Hole in one big push.
My plan was a simple one. Leave early (4am), cycle about 20 miles along
the road and flag down the first 4 by 4 that passed me to get a lift through
the 40 miles of the Targhee National Forest and John D. Rockefeller Jr Memorial
Parkway as I crossed from Idaho to Wyoming. After the wilderness the route was
on the road all the way to Jackson Hole. Where
my plan was to cycle again unless my tire completely gave up and I needed to
flag down a lift (which would be easier on the main road).
So that was the plan and I eventually got to bed just before 12.
Day 14: Ashton
– Jackson Hole (112 miles)
The alarm woke me sharply at 4am and I was out the door by 04.30h. I was
tired, but my legs felt remarkably good. It was great cycling in the cool
morning air with just my headtorch lighting up the road in front of me.
I had reached the boundary to the wilderness and the gravel by 06.30 and
I started to climb up towards the Wyoming State border. Now,
according to the plan I would be picked up any time soon. But as it happened
the only vehicle I saw before Flagg Ranch, Wyoming and the other side of the National Forrest
was coming in the other direction. We stopped for a five minute chat and they
sparred me a few squirts of their mosquito repellent!
I was really pleased to make Flagg Ranch and I stopped there for some
lunch. I was now confident that even if I had to hitch I could make Jackson by the end of the
day. As I headed down the road the first obstacle were a set of roadwork where
you have a compulsory shuttle – to my delight it was all uphill!
The next 60+ miles along the road were just beautiful and I loved the
road along to Jackson Hole with great views of
the Tetons – this section was a real highlight for me. This is interesting as Jackson Hole is 40 miles off the official Great Divide Route.
Marco had been keen to take an extra day off route to bike this section but I
hadn’t been keen as I was tight for time. In hindsight, I’m quite glad I was
forced to take it as the journey was absolutely spectacular.
Typically, I arrived at Jackson Hole just after the bike shop had shut and decided to seek refuge in the local brew
bar to gather my thoughts, get some pasta, use their wifi and to make a plan.
As I was sat working my way through the range of local ales the guy next
to me said, ‘ you look like you have been cycling’. I told them what I was
doing and they smiled. As it turned out I had sat down next to Jay and Tracey Petervary who had
just finished the Tour Divide Race on a tandem mountain bike. They had cycled
the whole of the Continental
Divide Mountain Bike Route in just over 17 days
(setting a new record) and had just flown back from the Mexican border. It was
great chatting to the couple and swapping stories about our individual
adventures.
It was during this conversation that I started to talk about my plans.
Jay asked if I intended to cycle back up to Moran Junction to re-join the
official route or if I would cut down towards Pinedale as I had already cycled
40miles the wrong way! I asked them about both routes and in the end decided
that I would head straight to Pinedale.
This decision presented a number of questions, problems and as it turns
out a lot of bad feeling on the part of my much respected team mates. Anyway, here’s
the thought process / information I had and went through:
So this was the knowledge that I based my decision on as I decided to
head towards Pinedale. I’m not saying it was the right decision and I’m not
saying there were not things that I
didn’t think about. But it’s what I did and I stick by the decision that I
made. Also, to be honest, I was pretty sure Marco and Simon wouldn’t be too
bothered to see the back of me, my humour and lack of bike fitness having had
to tolerate all three of these things for nearly two weeks.
Day 15 - Jackson to Improvised Camp on Big Sandy-Elkhorn Road (101
miles)
As the bike shop opened at 10am I had a bit of a lay in (until 7am!) for the
first time in two weeks. Then I headed to the post office posted a couple of things
back to the UK. I was keen to get the weight down in my BOB Trailer.
I
decided that I would go even lighter if it was unlikely that I would be
reunited with Simon and Marco in the next few days. But for the time being I
kept my half of the tent – at least I could crawl under it if the rain got
really heavy!
Next
I headed to the Fitzgerald’s Bike
Shop and the mechanics fitted two new tyres and a new chain. I also picked
up some other supplies including some chain lube, spare inner tubes and a large
tube of Chamois
BUTT'r.
At Midday my bike was serviced and I started along the 85 mile stretch to
Pinedale, The route was a National Scenic Road and really nice to cycle along.
I made good time along the road despite the first 50 miles being uphill!
At
Pinedale I checked on the guys on the SPOT and I headed on to Boulder where I
stopped to get something to eat at a cafe at the back of a petrol station.
Leaving the Cafe at 7.30pm. I had intended to cycle about another 10 miles of
the route and then bivi by the side of the road and continue in the morning.
But when I came out of the petrol station a storm was brewing and it had got
really windy.
Luckily,
the wind was behind me and I made rapid progress along the road. Until after 25
minutes and nine miles I realized I was on the wrong road! The nine miles back
to the cafe took an hour and a half! I found the right road, strapped on my
head torch and headed up into the mountains. At 11.30 I couldn't cycle any
further so I set my bivi up just off the road, climbed in and quickly fell asleep
as the rain and wind blew around me.
I
had a funny feeling that the boys might be enjoying the Jackson Hole Brew Pub!
Day 16 - Improvised Camp on Big-Sandy Elkhorn Road - Improvised Camp by
the Sweetwater River
I remember my alarm going off at 4am but I quickly fell back to sleep waking
again at 6am to a remarkably nice day. As I was short of water I just ate a
cereal bar and got going, but my legs felt they had not really recovered from
the previous long day on the trail. After about ten miles I stopped at the Big
Sandy River where I filtered water and ate more cereal bars. The rest of the day’s
route followed a remote gravel road described as a ‘roller coaster ‘of ups
and downs as the route meandered east crossing the continental divide two times
and also followed the divide for a great ten mile section with fantastic views
into the Bridger Wilderness to the North.
After 33 miles the route joined the main road for a few miles crossing the
continental divide for a third time before a hard hill to South Pass City.
South Pass City is historic mining town where part of the town is preserved as
a museum. I bought and ice cream and some juice at the shop and then tackled
the killed hill out of South Pass towards Atlantic City - I was pushing within
5 mins! I stopped at the Cafe at Atlantic City that was in full celebration for
the 4th July, all of the ladies in the cafe were dressed up and we exchanged a
good bit of banter as I ate my cheese burger.
The hill out of Atlantic City was another killer and I pushed the mile to the
top. But from there it was downhill to where I was thinking of biving on the shore
of the Sweetwater River river. The Sweetwater River would be my last definite
water source for over 50 miles.
As
I headed down the road it started to rain heavily (really heavily) and before
long the bike, the Bob and I were covered in mud. Arriving at the camp the
first thing I did during a break in the rain was take the bike and the Bob into the river and try to wash
as much of the mud off as possible. Then it was my turn, I lay in the river
fully clothed and tried to get as much of the mud off me as possible.
The rain soon started again and I quickly cooked some Ramen Noodles and
climbed into my Bivi as the light faded and the temperature quickly plummeted.
I smiled to myself as I sealed myself into my Gore Tex Bag as the label on the
zip reads 'To avoid suffocation do not seal completely - leave at least six
inches of air space'.
I
shut the zip deciding to risk suffocation rather than get any wetter!
In my next post in this series I
will describe the route between the Sweetwater River, Wyoming to Silverthorne,
Colorado.
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