Trek - Day 3
It was a wet and
cold morning for our 5am get up (of course it didn’t help that there were huge
lumps of glacial ice on the beach we were camped on and that the wind was
blowing off Long Glacier into our little ice cove).
The first
challenge of the day was to cross the river and then follow it up the valley
until we could get over the first of the three ridges that we would need to
negotiate on are route.
The river is
glacial which means that it dropped significantly overnight as it gets cooler
and the glacier up the valley stops melting as much. Our crossing point only ended
up being ankle deep. This would be the first of many river crossings over the
next few days, some were very big (more on that later) and some of them were
smaller but we stopped counting at 50 crossings!
River crossings are one of the most dangerous things
that you will do on a wilderness trip. Fast flowing water, uneven ground and
heavy backpacks are not a good combination. I spent time briefing the group on
the beach that morning and would continue to do so until I was satisfied that
the group could individually risk assess each water hazard and apply the best
crossing strategy. For the more
complicated cross, I would always go first often then returning for the rest of
the group – our feet remained wet for the eight days!
After a quite a slow crossing (we would get a lot quicker) we made our way up the side of the river and had our first experience
of bushwacking through Willow – it was a fun introduction but we had no idea
what would be waiting for us in a couple of days time.
We stopped from breakfast at about 08.30h and then started our long climb up towards the ridge (Fall Creek Pass) and our
crossing point. It was steep and on scree and we had to negotiate patches of
snow near the top.
After the fitter
members of the group had rested at the top some descended to help the ones that
were struggling. Considering the conditions the teamwork, determination and
perseverance of the group was outstanding.
We hung around
briefly on top and then descended a lovely tongue of green to the next valley.
It was nice to not be walking on scree and it even stopped raining for about an
hour!
We found a great little camp spot next to the Fall Creek, ate and were
all in bed by 8pm!
Trek – Day 4
It had pretty
much rained steadily through the night and today ended up being one of the
hardest days on the trek in terms of terrain, route finding and general
wetness!
The river that we
were camped in was the upper stages of a hanging valley that flowed into the
second of the large U-shaped valleys (The Kluvesna River Valley) that we needed to cross during the route.
Following the
river was fine and we made quick progress along gravel bars and zigzagged
between different sides of Fall Creek. The problem of course was we couldn’t
follow the Fall Creek for to long as rivers that flow in a hanging valley
quickly become waterfalls as they flow into the main U-Shaped valley!
So, as the
terrain started to change we stayed high along the open tundra until we got to
the shoulder of the main U-shaped valley (Kluvesna River). The guidebook
description was a bit sketchy here although it does tell you to look out for
the 30ft cliff!
Anyway,
visibility was poor, we couldn’t see the bottom of the valley and the terrain
ahead was steep and covered in willow. The next few hours relied completely on
judgment we loosely followed a compass bearing and I kept my eyes closely on my
altimeter as we descended the horrendous slope.
We had to stick really close
together as a group as the sound of Fall Creek (going over the waterfall!) made
hearing difficult and the high thick willow (above head height) combined with
the steep ground meant that you couldn’t see anyone more than five metres away.
We were soaked through to the skin within minutes because of the fighting
through the bush and the whole experience felt completely surreal.
One of the boys
took a slip and ended up upside down in a bush and we only had time to get a quick photograph before he was extracted by other
members of the group.
After descending
about 1000ft we reached a small clearing and the mist lifted just enough for us
to get a glimpse of the Kluvesna River. This was a great moral boost for the
group but I was thinking, ‘how are we going go get across that?’ it was huge!
We kept fighting
out way through the trees and as the ground leveled out our bearing took us across an
old river bed. These are like small roads through the bush (although bears like to
use them as well!). We made quick progress on the river bed and eventually got
to the Kluvesna River where the trees opened out and we could rest.
The Kluvesna
River is glacial fed (combined with all the run off from the sides of the
valley) and it was still raining. There was no way that we could cross at the
point we were at by the guidebook suggested heading up towards the snout of the
glacier. Glacial rivers tend to be more braided and less steep here. They are
also not as swollen from the rain water run off.
So off we went
along the side of the river. It was a wet but very dramatic walk next to the
roaring river, getting closer and closer to the glacier in a huge U-shaped
valley. The problem was the river wasn’t getting any smaller!
As we approached
the snout of the glacier I went ahead to check out the route. I was pretty
convinced that as long as we could get onto the snout we could walk across the
glacier – in any case it was our only real option!
Getting on to the
glacier was actually not very much of a problem. Some loose moraine led to an
ice tongue which formed a perfect bridge to safe ground. We had everybody on
within 10 minutes. We then negotiated the bands of moraine and found another
ice tongue leading right of the glacier. It was easier that I thought it was
going to be.
However, the next
bit wasn’t as easy. Ideally it would have been great to camp here. It had been
a massive day and everyone was very tired. The problem was there were no flat
spots for the tents and no water.
The only option
was to start the steep accent towards Surprise Creek Pass (the second ridge of
the route) as there were a number of streams at higher elevations. So, that’s what
we did, you could see where you had to go, ‘up’, and we spread out as a group
each of us taking our own time and going at our own pace as we climbed higher and
higher back into the mountains. Waking was pleasant, the views were beautiful
but the ground was steep.
After we found a
spot to camp by a spring the group were brilliant again at helping each other.
Going back for some of the other bags, putting each others tents up and making
hot drinks and dinner.
We had stated
walking at 6am and we finished at 8pm – it had been a brutal day. But as I sat
there that evening watching the dynamic of the team in this unique place that I
am convinced no one had ever camped in or even found before. I felt very proud
of what we had already achieved and the group surrounding me. It’s wonderful to
see discomfort give way to humor and its amazing the impact a sachet of hot
chocolate and some Raman noodles has on the mood of a wilderness camp.
In the next post
I’ll look at day 5 – 6 of the trek where it rains some more and we consider an
evacuation due to another swollen river.
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